Back in the day, upscale New York restaurants would tape up hard-to-come-by photos of each of the major newspapers’ restaurant critics, with the injunction that could have gone something like: “If you see any of these people come in, treat them with kid gloves.” Such was their power to make or break a restaurant.

Now, in the age of Twitter, restaurateurs have to beware of anyone with a smart phone. Today’s New York Times story “If You Can’t Take the Heat, Don’t Read Me on Twitter” zeros in on the latest spate of trash-talking chefs and eatery owners who have taken to Twitter in an attempt to level the playing field against suppliers, critics, other chefs,  even diners who leave bad reviews on the likes of Yelp.com.

It’s ironic that the Times should give so much real estate to a phenomenon that essentially eats away at its (and other mainstream publications’) longstanding clout in recommending restaurants to readers. Ironic, but no surprise. The Times has shown remarkable agility in adapting itself to the new media realities.

And from the looks of it, instead having a photo of restaurant critics taped up in the kitchen, there will be an album of Twittering foodies to watch out for.